"I must make people laugh while correcting them" — Jean-Baptiste Molière
What does Molière have to do with the small town of Pézenas, tucked away in the vineyards of southern France? The fact is that it was in this very town that Jean-Baptiste Poquelin, who was born in Paris in 1622, became the world-famous playwright known as Mr. Molière.
It was in Pezenas that Molière, an outstanding theatrical figure of the 17th century, the founder of the modern comedy genre, and the favorite of the French king Louis XIV (Louis the Great), staged some of his earliest plays in his own theater. But let's start from the beginning.
Pézenas is a small charming town in the south of France located between Béziers and Montpellier in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. The name "Pézenas" originates from the obsolete latin word “piscenis” which means “pond”. According to legend, there was once a lake here full of fish.
The first mention of Pézenas dates to 1189, and by 1261 it had already gained the status of a royal city. The reason why Pézenas got such privileges was quite simple.
In the 17th century, this town became the Versailles of the French South serving as the royal residence and capital of the Languedoc province.
Louis XIV played an important role in developing the region: he built a port in Sète and the famous Canal du Midi, connecting the Mediterranean coast of France with the Atlantic. He also renovated Montpellier and often made royal visits to attend state assemblies in Pézenas, turning this small medieval town into a flourishing hub where nobility and aristocracy settled.
Annually Pézenas hosted six trade fairs and several state assemblies making it an incredibly prosperous and advanced city.
The town was home to the estate of Henri II de Bourbon, Prince de Condé, and later his son Louis II de Bourbon, the Grand Condé, both of whom served as governors of Languedoc, representing royal authority in the region.
The historical center of Pézenas is a picturesque maze of narrow streets lined with urban mansions of the 16th-18th centuries. Among the religious landmarks it is worth mentioning the old Chapel of the Black Penitents (Pénitents Noirs), later converted into a theater where Molière's troupe performed; the Chapel of St.Ursulines, and the Collegiate Church of St. John (Collégiale Saint-Jean) with a treasury housing artifacts from various churches in the town.
However, the town is best known for its association with Molière, who frequently brought his troupe to Pézenas and it was in this city that he first used the pseudonym Molière, under which he later became known to the whole world. To commemorate it, a monument to Molière created by the famous sculptor Jean-Antoine Anjelbert stands in the town. Visitors can also explore the Musée de Vuilloid Saint-Germain, which houses Molière's famous armchair.
The presence of Molière's troupe in the town was not a coincidence. Molière was a favorite of Prince Condé, the city's governor, who was responsible for organizing the visits of the king and holding state assemblies. These gatherings were very important for the region, bringing together the royal court, ministers, and local aristocracy to resolve taxation issues and other matters.
During breaks from such weighty deliberations, the nobility sought entertainment and Molière was responsible for providing it. His plays quickly gained immense popularity, establishing comedy as an art form that transcended mere satire and farce. Molière elevated comedy to a sophisticated art form, without losing its scenic virtues and its adherence to the principles of true dramatic action.
Just a short drive from Pézenas, nestled among the hills lies the magnificent Abbey de Valmagne, a historic abbey and winery well known for its "Wine Cathedral."
The Abbey of Our Lady of Valmagne was founded in 1139 as a Benedictine monastery but became part of the Cistercian Order in 1159. The Cistercians were renowned for their skills in agriculture and winemaking. By the 13th century, the monastery had become one of the wealthiest abbeys in Languedoc thanks to its successful viticulture and farming.
In the 13th and 14th centuries, the abbey church was reconstructed in a Gothic style featuring high vaulted ceilings and elegant windows that gave it a cathedral-like appearance. This grandeur gave the abbey its nickname "Cathedral of the Vineyards" (Cathédrale des Vignes), a name it still retains.
The abbey suffered greatly during the Religious Wars of the 16th century between Catholics and Huguenots and was almost entirely looted.
During the French Revolution, the abbey was closed and its property was confiscated. Many buildings fell into disrepair, and the church was converted into a wine warehouse.
After the Revolution, the abbey was privately owned. Today it is managed by a family that has resumed the winemaking tradition. The abbey now produces organic wines which visitors can taste and purchase on-site.
Inside the church, you can still see the enormous wine barrels from the 19th century made of Russian oak. The barrels, last used for their intended purpose in 1996, not only serve as decorative elements but are believed to help support the cathedral's structure due to their sturdy design.
Come and visit! Let’s explore Molière's haunts together, then enjoy a delightful tour of the historic Abbey de Valmagne, where we can savor a meal at the local restaurant paired with a glass of aromatic wine.
Prices:
Full tour of Pézenas, including visits to historic mansions, the Molière Museum, followed by a tour and wine tasting at Abbey de Valmagne, with lunch at a local restaurant (6 hours): €500 (for 1-4 people).
Sightseeing tour of Pézenas and lunch (3 hours): €250.
Entrance tickets to museums, lunch, and wine tastings are not included in the tour price.
Tour meeting point:
in front of the Molière monument.
